Have you been to Chernivtsi?

Bucovina really is a corner of paradise

I first came to Bucovina as a child—I was about 5 years old—and I don’t remember much about it. I had the chance to go back in 2015. I was drawn to the churches with their exterior murals (at that time, I only saw Voronet and Humor Monastery) and to the people—a unique breed of Romanians, gentle, hospitable, full of life, and passionate about authentic Romanian culture, though they also have a distinctive accent in the western parts of the region.

In 2016, I returned to Bucovina and traveled to Putna, the place where Stephen the Great—the greatest leader (I hesitate to call him a “prince”) of Moldavia—is buried. The Putna area is unique: after being enchanted by the beautiful, gentle, and contrasting natural landscape as soon as you leave Gura Humorului and head north, you arrive in Putna, where you find an oasis of greenery and tranquility. I’m not very old, but I had never experienced such profound, mysterious tranquility before.

Northern Bukovina: Ukraine Today, Romania Yesterday

However, Bucovina is more than just what you can visit in Romania. Bucovina also extends into Ukraine. “The Land of Beech Trees,” as its very name suggests, Bucovina belonged to the Moldavians for quite some time, passing into the Habsburg Empire in 1774 and later becoming part of Greater Romania. In 1945, northern Bukovina was annexed by the USSR, and in 1991 by Ukraine (following the collapse of the USSR). Northern Bukovina is closely linked to the history of Moldova; there you will find Hotin Fortress (twin to the other fortresses of Moldova—unfortunately, only 6 of Moldova’s 13 major fortresses remain in present-day Romania, with the rest belonging to the Republic of Moldova and Ukraine), the city of Chernivtsi, and many Romanian speakers in villages as well as in Chernivtsi (around 50,000).

I went there eager to see, to discover, and to feel a bit of Romanian spirit.

Throughout history, Bukovina has belonged to:

• The Principality of Moldavia, 1346–1774
• The Habsburg Empire, 1774–1918
• Romania 1918–1940
• USSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics) (Northern Bukovina) 1940–1941
• Romania 1941–1945
• Romania (Southern Bukovina) 1945–present
• USSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics) (Northern Bukovina) 1945–1991
• Ukraine, Northern Bukovina (Chernivtsi Region) 1991–present

Two Days in Bucovina Across the Border, in Ukraine

At the border, it’s a bit shocking—you have to wait a long time (a few hours going in, and usually twice as long coming back, since you’re entering the European Union), and people are impatient and a bit rude. The border isn’t a European one; it’s a Romanian improvisation.

You’ll be surprised when you cover the first few kilometers—the houses are large, clean, and well-maintained, as are the yards. The fields are cultivated. The people are hardworking, and that’s very evident. There is a stark contrast between the villages on the Romanian side of the border and those on the Ukrainian side.

The city of Chernivtsi is nearby; you can get there in about 40 minutes. Here, things are different. Poverty and hardship are evident. You can tell by the condition of the streets, the buildings, and the old cars. Much of the downtown area is paved with cobblestones, laid long ago and rarely repaired. But it’s charming. I hope they don’t change it even in 700 years.

People are kind and friendly—on the street, in traffic, and in stores. The women are beautiful—really beautiful and elegant. You can see the Russian influence here.

This place hasn’t escaped globalization either, but alongside the run-of-the-mill offerings from big corporations, you’ll find here some candy, pastry, and chocolate boutiques that are impressive for their simplicity, the taste of their products, their unique character, and their atmosphere.

The city of Chernivtsi boasts spectacular architecture; here you’ll discover a number of historic buildings (dating back to the Habsburg Empire) that have been well preserved—the theater, the buildings in the old pedestrian zone (boutique shops, bank branches, restaurants), City Hall, the high schools in the city center, and especially the University. The University is truly special. You won’t find one as beautiful as this in Romania. It dates back to the mid-19th century. You can tour it, and you’ll even find Romanian-speaking guides there. It’s easy to mistake it for one of the universities in the United Kingdom.

You’ll meet people born in Chernivtsi who speak Romanian and do so with love and pride (pride in the best sense of the word, with positive emotion). We ran into them in restaurants and cafes and really enjoyed long conversations with them. They struck us as bohemian, smart, and full of zest for life. Maybe we were just lucky to meet such cool people; we hope to confirm the unique character of the Romanians here on future trips.

The food is very good, and I think it’s also quite natural. There are a number of very nice, modern, and tastefully decorated places to stay, such as Apartment 7 (see the photos in the gallery). Prices are lower for everything.

In Conclusion

It’s worth taking a trip—for the pleasure of meeting Romanians born in Romania back in the day, to experience a rich culture, and to savor the flavors of yesteryear (it seems that the cookies, candies, and more taste just like they used to in Romania), to enjoy low prices, and to admire the beautiful and stylish local women.

We recharged our batteries—and especially our souls; Bucovina is that kind of place that can fill your soul even when you’re just spending a few days in its countryside.